A Quiet Time in Moissac

A Quiet Time in Moissac

Dreaming of a quiet moment away from the big noisy city? Moissac, on the French Routes of Santiago de Compostella, with its former abbey is for you! Here, 500 Jewish children were saved by the inhabitants during World War II.

In the South-West of France, close to Montauban, Moissac calls to everyone’s mind the remarkable velvety Chasselas grapes that ripen on the slopes overhanging the town. From these gently rolling hills bristling with vines, the eye delights in the old monastic city that is so provincial and we are rather astonished to see the shadow of a fortified belfry stretching over this peaceful scene.

We would love to see this abbey of the Benedictine monks, now a simple parish, lost in the countryside and, as it were protected from the world. Such was probably the case at its beginning in the VIIth century. Destructions and restorations alternated there throughout the years. Nothing is more touching than this determination to bind up the wounds, to repair, to fortify, to embellish and prolong the existence of a building which was doomed to destruction without the vigilant attention which has preserved it forever. In 1047, Moissac was affiliated to the Cluny Order, this was the beginning of its fame. Between 1120 and 1140 a combined belfry and porch were added to the façade. The first storey of the tower with its curious arch was erected in in the middle of the XIIth century. At that period the lay-out and the structure of the church were altered, the nave was rebuilt and roofed in with cupolas, the porch and tower were fortified and the sculptured portal was shifted and carried over to the South

side. In the XIVth century, the church suffered from the Hundred Years’ War. It was once again rebuilt – it is now the present edifice – by incorporating elements of the preceding buildings into it. In short, once past the belfry-porch, the most ancient part of the church, we visit a XVth century monument with many traces of the XIIth century.

The abbey of Saint-Pierre, Moissac, France.

Image source: http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Moissac_4.jpg&filetimestamp=20070625095205

On the North side of the church, the cloister unrolls its four identical arcades. A great desire to charm the eye can be found in the contours of the stonework, in the variety of iconographic themes as well as in the contrasts between the shadow and sunlight. This art, overflowing with magic, the friend of a fabulous flora and fauna, does not disdain to express the life of its day despite appearances.

In the cloister of Moissac Abbey.

Image source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Moissac_6.jpg

It is of the South Portal that we think when art-lovers mention Moissac. It is one of the masterpieces of Romanesque sculpture and quite singularly, it is the pride of early Languedocian sculpture. The church has a single nave with seven bays, it is edged with chapels and ends in a heptagonal apse. One section is made of stone, and is Romanesque, the other, made of brick is Gothic. It was built between 1431 and 1455. We shall stop before some chapels and important monuments. To the right, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows. Here, we can see a « Compassion » dated 1476 which is quite extraordinary for a work of the XVth century.Then a moving work of art: Joseph of Arimathae and Nicodemus, depositing Christ in the Holy Sepulchre. Beside the organ-chest bearing the arms of Mazarin, the donor, we notice a crucifix which may be of Spanish origin.

Throughout the centuries how many eyes have gladly lingered on these beautiful and venerable stones. We who pass are seized with an envy to live, not for pleasure, not even for thought, but simply like peasants and monks and to lead a life that draws those who give themselves up to it towards an invisible and real world.

Moissac and the Tarn River.

Image source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Moissac_and_Tarn_river.jpg

The Canal-bridge of Moissac.

Image source:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:TarnMoissacPontCanal.jpg

Another view of the cloister at Moissac.

Image source: http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Moissac_1.jpg&filetimestamp=20070625094743

Capitals in the cloister.

Image source: http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Moissac_8.jpg&filetimestamp=20070625101611

Please check out my related articles:

http://www.trifter.com/Europe/France/The-Pink-City-of-Montauban.580161

http://www.quazen.com/Arts/Architecture/Albi-Extraordinary-Fortress-Cathedral.584169

http://www.quazen.com/Arts/Art-History/A-Romanesque-Jewel-Surgères-Church.299785

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11 Comments

Aaron Paul Hicks, posted this comment on Jun 16th, 2009

Another great piece, well done you are so talented and love reading your work,thankyou, best wishes Aaron x

chris73, posted this comment on Jun 16th, 2009

Thanks for the great tour.

Lostash, posted this comment on Jun 16th, 2009

Another amazing place! The cloisters alone would be worth the visit! We should all take more time to enjoy our own heritage.

richard reed, posted this comment on Jun 16th, 2009

As always,brilliant work..stay blessed my friend..your fan.. Rich

Princess Dre, posted this comment on Jun 16th, 2009

Love it…another gorgeous architecture with history to tell…Princess

swatilohani, posted this comment on Jun 17th, 2009

simply perfect portayal

Ruby Hawk, posted this comment on Jun 17th, 2009

Thanks for the information and the grand tour.It’s all amazing and well done.

R J Evans, posted this comment on Jun 27th, 2009

A beautiful town beautifully described.

Jacques Richer, posted this comment on Jul 2nd, 2009

A Canadian, I worked for a few months in Moissac (1972). Your photos have taken me back to the wonderful time I spebt in that historic town. There use to be an old war monument by the river, just below the old bridge does anyone have a photo of the monument? Memories are so important as one gets older, thank you

Francois Hagnere, posted this comment on Jul 5th, 2009

Thank you all for your nice comments.
Jacques: there is a war monument in bricks and stone built by André Abbal in 1925. You can find a photo on the internet by typing: monument aux morts moissac.
Best wishes,
François

PhoenixRox, posted this comment on Jul 15th, 2009

How I wish I could visit all the places you write about! A wonderful article as always!!
Your humble fan,
Phoenix.

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