First we started out with an empty Pole Barn, A Pole Barn is a barn that uses large vertical posts and horizontal beams instead of using 2×4 boards for the main support structure. The barn only had one small room about 12′ by 12′ we demolished using crowbars and claw hammers. Next step was to plan out the project on paper and make a blueprint, one side consisted of 3 first story bedrooms, and bathroom, the 2nd story having 1 bedroom, storage room, and activity room. The other side; consuming 2/3 of the barn space, will have 14′ high ceilings in the kitchen, dining, and living room area.

After planning all the rooms, windows, and doors we started the rough framework. First we measure where our wall is going to be, using a chalk line to snap a line to keep our wall straight against. After determining the dimensions of the room and marking out the walls it is time to begin building. We use a special nail gun called a powder actuated nailer (A nail gun with explosive cartridges to force the nail into concrete or cement) to nail the bottom studs to the concrete floor after cutting each piece to the correct length using a reciprocating saw. When all the base boards were down we had the outline of the rooms and doorway openings. Next we nailed vertical studs every 16 inches on the base board with a framing air nailer connected to an air compressor, after that we framed the windows. When all the vertical studs were nailed in place and the top horizontal boards nailed onto the studs we began framing the ceiling trusses with 2×6″ boards placed every 16 inches across on top of the walls. Then we nailed plywood flooring on top of the walls and began framing the second story rooms.

As we built the framework between the beams to prepare it for drywall, we began putting up the pine wood ceiling. First we prepared the area for the ceiling by stapling moisture guard plastic on the rafters. Tools we used included a battery powered lift, air stapler, measuring tape, hammer, reciprocating saw, jigsaw, and air compressor. Next I went up on the lift with a full length pine board and nailed it to the ceiling and so on, until I couldn’t fit a full length piece.

Then I measured and cut the last piece on that row. The next row I nailed up so the seams were at least 8″ away from the others so it has a random pattern. Making sure each piece is firm against the previous row I nailed near the seam to hide the indentations from the staples.

Next we nailed electrical boxes 18 inches high from the concrete floor, with 1/8″ of the box coming out of the stud. Then we drilled holes through the studs and ran romex wire through, linking the electrical boxes to the electrical panel, lights, and switch boxes. After lighting, electrical boxes, and switch boxes were ran, we wired the can lights for the living room, dining room, kitchen, and bathroom. Wiring the hot water tank and air conditioning came next, using larger gauge wire for higher voltage. We also added additional duct work coming from the furnace by cutting holes into the main duct, fitting and fastening it with tech screws, taking it to the new bedrooms, bathroom, living room, kitchen, dining, and activity room ceilings. As soon as the electrical was finished we ran the water lines above the attic and through the walls to the bathroom and kitchen, connecting them with crimpers, which is a special kind of pliers that fit around the pipe and joint and crimp a ring around the pipe to the connector so it can’t slip off. We then dug a trench outside to the septic tank line, cutting through the concrete with a saw. Next we ran the drain pipes through the trenches cut through the concrete going to the bathroom and outside, cleaning and priming the pipes before applying the glue to the fittings and connectors to make sure it wouldn’t leak, strengthening the joints also.

When we finished up the electrical and duct work we began dry walling the ceilings then walls of the bedrooms with gypsum boards. Measuring and subtracting 1/4 inch before cutting each piece with a razor knife to make sure it fits easily. We applied dry wall glue to the bottom of the ceiling joists to help strengthen the bond between the drywall and the joists, and fastened it with an semiautomatic electrical screwdriver, which is a electrical drill with an mechanical attachment that reloads screws every time you push it against the wall or ceiling when screwing. Before attaching each piece of drywall board we measured, marked out electrical boxes, and cut holes with a drywall saw so the boxes can fit through. Next we drywall mudded the corners and seams with corner trawls and rectangle drywall knives for the first coat, next coat we taped the seams and corners with paper drywall tape while the mud was still wet. After the second coat dries we put on a third coat, covering the tape. Each coat we sanded after it dried being careful not to rip the drywall tape.

Next after the sanding and drywall mudding we put masking tape around all the large beams and posts so we can paint while preserving the natural color of the old wooden beams. First we painted around the posts and corners with a brush, then we used a paint roller on a pole for the larger areas. After painting all the rooms we began on the flooring.

The next major part of the project was putting in the laminate flooring. The kind of laminate flooring we used is called a floating floor because it isn’t nailed down, instead it has a tongue and groove on each end to connect it to the next board and so on. First we prepared the floor with moisture blocking plastic and foam to cancel out noise from walking on the floor, unrolling, measuring, and cutting each piece with razor knives. Using a hammer and block to pound each piece into the next as we held it at a 30 degree angle, lowering it down as we hammered it to prevent from damaging the tongue and groove. Make sure to have the seams of the boards no closer then 8″ apart to prevent an irregular pattern. Each piece was cut with a reciprocating saw and held 1/8″ away from the drywall with shims to leave room for it to expand and contract from temperature changes.

Before putting up the details and trim we installed the cabinets with 2″ drywall screws and power drills, leveling each cabinet and clamping to the other cabinet before attaching. Next we nailed the base boards around the edge of the flooring to cover the gaps, Also measuring, cutting, and nailing down the window sills. Around on the edges of the ceiling, corners, doors, and windows we nailed up the trim. Then we installed the granite counter top and marble bathroom floor. First we cut the pressboard and fastened it to the top of the counter cabinets. Next we cut the tiles to the correct size and stirred the cement. We used tile cement applying it with a trawl with special grooves to make pressing it down easier. We cut the measured pieces with a tile saw and filled in the gaps between the tile with grout, wiping off the excess to smoothen the surface. Afterwards, when the tile was installed and countertop in place we installed the appliances, toilet, and sinks.

The Last part of our construction project was installing the vinyl siding. The First task for installation is to draw lines at the base of the outside of the barn using a water level to keep our guiding lines level.

Next we took metal starting pieces along the guiding lines for the vinyl siding to clip onto. We used tin snips to cut the aluminum starter strips and vinyl siding after measuring. After putting up all the starter pieces we started screwing up vinyl siding onto the older metal siding with tech screws (small screws with small drill tips for screwing into metal.) We measured each piece and subtracted a 1/4″ to create small gaps to leave room for expansion caused by temperature changes. Whenever we sided up to the windows, doors, electrical outlets, exterior lights and pipes, and corners we cut the siding around it after screwing up the J channel

(J channeling is vinyl strips attached around protruding objects to cover gaps) making sure to leave a 1/4″ gap between the J channel and siding to leave room for expansion. As each row was attached we had to cut a short piece for the end, after that we attached full length piece next to it, making it appear as a stair stepping pattern, similar to the floor and ceiling pattern. Each piece was attached to the previous piece by clipping the bottom or your current piece to the top of the lower piece and then screwed on the top with tech screws.

After installing the siding we finished minor details such as trim work and installing base board inside the house. At last, we were finished converting our pole barn into a large, ranch type house.