The Cutting Layout And Pinning.

   After you have selected your pattern according to your measurements, altering it, if it is necessary. You can now precede with laying out the fabric. Here are some rules to remember:

1. Match the grain lines of the pattern accurately with the grain of the fabric.
2. Fit the pieces together so as to effect the greatest economy in material.

  Start from the the straighten end of the fabric and whenever possible, follow the layout given for your size and width of material in commercial patterns.However there will be times when you would want to create your own layouts. Whatever the case may be  begin as follows.

  Place large pattern pieces first. Make sure that there is enough fabric to cut the small pieces and those which have to be cut out from a single material.Whenever a garment is unbalanced as in asymmetrical styles with a wide right front bodice and a narrow left bodice, make sure that the pattern is laid so that the right side of the fabric will be on the outside when placed against you.

Grain lines.It is important that the the grain lines marked on the pattern pieces should be made to relate to the lengthwise ( or warp) threads of the fabric.- otherwise the garment will not hang properly.The only pattern pieces which do not have grain lines are those which are to be placed on the fold. These should placed right to the fold of the material.When piecing is necessary make sure that the join will be made on the wrap or the weft threads, matching the grain. Piecing to save is not advised, but if is a must then it should be done on a part of the garment that will not be seen, such as the facing.

   Once you are done laying out the pattern. Pin the pieces down to the fabric before cutting .Begin at the straightened end  of the material, and pin the pattern along the folds and straight edges first. When pinning along the salvage edge, do not place the pattern on the selvage but just outside, so that selvage can be cut off. The selvage is more tightly woven then the rest of the fabric and should not be included in the finished garment. Do not pin to close to the edges of the pattern. Pin in side the stitching line. Make sure that all corners and points are securely held down. Pin in place only those pieces which can fit in your cutting surface which should be a cutting board or a table.

Cutting and Marking the Fabric

  Before cutting ,think about the nature of your fabric. On badly fraying material leave a bigger seam allowance. A 1 inch seam allowance is preferable to the 5/8 inch allowed in patterns,particularly on side seams; it will give more room for fitting and neatening.

  Notches ( or balance marks )should never be cut inwards because it will weaken and reduce the seam allowance.There position may be marked by cutting them outwards. Follow the lines of the pattern pieces, cut with long strokes, do not lift the work from the table.Your cutting scissors are shaped so that they rest on the table while cutting. The scissor blades should slide along on the table and not be lifted.

  After cutting, leave the pattern on the fabric until you are ready to sew. Then transfer all the markings except the grain line from the pattern to the fabric. Center front and back should always be marked to assist in fitting.

  There are several methods of marking,but I am only going to mention the ones that are easy and I like best.The first one is using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.This method of marking must only be used on the wrong side of the fabric and is not suitable for all fabrics.Before using tracing paper test it on the wrong side of a spare piece of material to ensure that the color dose not come through the right side.

  With right sides of the fabric facing each other, place the tracing paper under the lower layer with the color side upwards. Slide another piece of tracing paper , color side downwards between the pattern an upper layer. Transfer the marking with the tracing wheel.Another method is to use a water soluble marking pin or tailor’s chalk.

Tip

  If you transfer markings right before you sew when using tailors chalk the marking will not rub as fast as they would ,if you marked the fabric moved the pattern but did not sew the same day.