It is almost a rite of passage into adult life to be stuck with a lemon. Worse, the crummy car can be a cruel reminder of your impecunity, dragging behind it an unwelcome tailpipe belching repair bills for years to come. But there’s no law that says you have to put your mechanic’s kids through college every time you buy a used car. Why not buy a good car in the first place, so you won’t be stranded at 1 a.m. on a Sunday in Tuba City, Arizona.

Research

You can determine the appropriate make and model for your needs by visiting dealer showrooms, reading Consumer Reports, and doing research online at Edmunds. Good pricing information can be found in the Kelley Blue Book, sold in bookstores and available online at Official Kelley Blue Book. For information about safety features, recalls, and crash test results, see the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Website, or phone (888) 327-4236. Never buy a car on the spot unless you have investigated it first. In this Internet age, anybody can find out what a vehicle is worth. The chance that you have found a dumb seller who doesn’t appreciate the value of a car is low. The first thing to do is to check out the car with a database search.

Autocheck and Carfax each maintain enormous databases that contain vehicle histories (1.7 billion and 900 million vehicles, respectively) gathered from a variety of sources. By keying in the vehicle identification number (VIN), which is found in the corner of the dashboard on the driver’s side, consumers can research vehicles for a modest fee. The report will indicate whether the car was damaged in a fire or flood, previously totaled, repurchased under a state lemon law, or failed an emissions test. According to Carfax, approximately 10 percent of the vehicles it checks out have some kind of problem with their histories. One of the biggest potential problems detected through a database search is title “cleansing,” which involves a distributor purchasing a car from an insurance company that has been classified “Flood Damaged” or “Salvage” and totaled. These special categories of titles exist in some states so that purchasers of the car can sell it for parts. Instead of taking them apart, however, shady operators will spruce up the cars and resell them in another state. The old title is replaced and no one is the wiser. The National Association of Independent Insurers estimates that 40 percent of all totaled cars end up back on the highways. Many of them have rusted parts and are dangerous to drive.

A tip-off to these shenanigans is a title chain that shows a migration from coastal or plains states that have had a lot of flooding to states that don’t recognize such titles. Flood titles are the bigger problem. Four states issue flood titles: North Carolina, New Jersey, Virginia, and New York. (Florida discontinued flood titles in 2000, and now issues “Certificates of Destruction.”) Flood damage can usually be detected by peeling back part of the carpet and looking for rust, or by a mildewy smell in the upholstery. Another potential area of concern that a database search will illuminate is odometer fraud. Analysts estimate that 8 percent of cars have had their odometer rolled back, stripping an average of over 20,000 miles off the clock. Looking at the chain of titles and mileage, you will be able to tell if odometer fraud is likely (the database report will highlight it as well). A single report costs $14.95 from either Autocheck.com, (205) 414-2727, AutoCheck; or Carfax, Carfax. Both firms also offer flat rates for 60 days’ unlimited usage if you plan on doing a lot of shopping around.

Test drive

Be sure to spend enough time in the driver’s seat to feel comfortable. The car should hold its line on the road and not veer to one side if you take your hands off the wheel. The steering wheel should not shimmy or vibrate at highway speeds; cornering should be sure and even. Noises during cornering are usually associated with the steering components or bad wheel bearings. Squealing sounds are often loose belts but sometimes indicative of a more serious problem. Punch the accelerator and brake pedal hard to test responsiveness. Persistent clicking sounds under heavy acceleration could mean the lifters or rods are worn, and only a matter of time before an engine overhaul. Don’t forget to look under the car for leaks after you drive it.

Even if a vehicle handles well and comes up clean on a database search it could turn out to be citrus. A close physical and mechanical inspection is a must. A good local garage should be able to do the job for under $100. Some AAA Motor Clubs offer standardized pre-purchase inspection services for a modest fee. Ask your mechanic to prepare an estimate for any repairs that may be required. Be sure to ask the owner for the car’s maintenance records. Here are the major areas to check out:

Engine

The first indicator of engine problems is blue or oily smoke coming from the exhaust. (Be sure to let the car warm up before looking at the tailpipe; all cars emit a whitish vapor when they are cold.) Ask your mechanic to do a compression test, which will evaluate the output from each cylinder and tell you whether the rings and pistons are worn. This test is very important because repairs to the cylinders, even comparatively minor ones, are expensive due to the time required to open up the engine.

Brakes

Although you can test the brakes for sponginess and squeaking noises during braking, only a close inspection will tell you for certain if the disc pads or drums are worn.

Transmission

The transmission can be evaluated during your test drive. If it slips or the car fails to engage when accelerating, it may be bad. Gears on a manual transmission should engage smoothly; if not, the clutch pads may be shot.

Electrical system

Your mechanic should test the electrical system with a diagnostic machine that will indicate if there is a problem with the starter, alternator, or battery. When you test drive the car, look closely at the dashboard to make sure no warning lights stay on. Airbags are particularly costly to repair.

Engine cooling system

If the engine is completely cold, take a look at the cooling system by unscrewing the radiator cap and siphoning off a little fluid with an antifreeze tester. Coolant should be translucent yellow or green; if it’s murky or dirty, chances are the radiator has some corrosion. Your mechanic can check out the cooling system by pressure testing the radiator to spot any leaks that could leave you stranded later.

Intake and exhaust

Sensors in the engine and exhaust system have a finite life and should be checked by your mechanic. The majority of states have mandatory emissions tests; bad sensors, catalytic converters, and loose tail pipes will have to be fixed before you take the car to be tested.

Frame and suspension

The suspension system, frame, and front wheel bearings should all be examined to ensure that the car is safe to drive. Examine the exterior carefully for signs of accident damage. Look for imperfections in the finish indicating it has been repainted. Also look inside the trunk and make sure the color matches the body. Another way to locate bodywork is with a magnet, which won’t work in areas that have been patched with epoxy resin (a.k.a. Bondo). If the doors, trunk, or hood do not open and close smoothly, there is a good chance the car was previously wrecked. Never look over a car in the rain-water can hide surface imperfections. Manufacturers’ certified pre-owned programs provide a margin of comfort. Vehicles in these programs generally have lower mileage, are in better shape, and have been given a thorough going-over by the dealer before being offered for sale. Pre-owned certifications typically feature extended factory warranties as well. You pay for the added assurance, though; certified used cars cost from $500 to $1,200 more on average.

Another good source for used cars is rental car companies. There is a reason why the national rental car firms always have new cars: Cars in their fleets are sold when they accumulate too many miles. Although rental cars can be abused, they are generally well-maintained and have complete service records. They often have time left on their manufacturers’ warranties as well. Although dealers give you a place to complain if you have a problem with the car, private sellers are significantly cheaper. Unlike the old days when dealers only sold trade-ins and you could occasionally find a bargain, today most cars in the used lots have been purchased at auctions. Buying from an individual can be dicey though. Some seemingly private sellers are really dealers of waxed-up jalopies who sell cars for cash and disappear without a trace. Be extremely wary if a private seller doesn’t seem to know much about the car or wants to meet somewhere other than his residence. Also avoid buying from what are known as “curbstoners.” These are unsavory operators who set up in vacant lots to merchandise used cars. Sometimes curbstoners use confederates who pretend to be private owners. When it comes to price, car buying is an American blood sport: Haggle like the dickens! Arm yourself with blue book pricing data and copies of Hemmings Motor News to offer comparable data points.

If you are buying from a dealer, be sure to write down any oral promises the salesperson makes. State lemon laws, by the way, only apply to cars under warranty. If you buy an old hunk of junk you are probably stuck with it. Go to the video store and rent the 1980 classic Used Cars, starring Kurt Russell. At least you will be able to laugh about it.