The first cup caresses my dry lips and throat

The second shatters the walls of my lonely sadness

The third searches the dry rivulets of my soul to find stories of five thousand scrolls

With the fourth the pain of mast injustice vanishes through my pores

The fifth purifies my flesh and bone,

With the sixth I am in touch with the immortals

The seventh gives such a pleasure I can hardly bear

The fresh wind blows through my winds

As I may my way to Fenglai (paradise)

The Story of Tea

Legend claims that tea-drinking originated in China during the third millennium BC. The Emperor Shen Nung was relaxing by the fire underneath a tree. A leaf from the tree drifted into an iron pot of water that was boiling on top of the fire. The aroma emanating from the pot aroused the Emperor’s curiosity. He took a sip of the water, and to his delight, he found the flavor clean and invigorating. Word spread quickly of the wonder the Emperor had discovered and soon many of his subjects were drinking cha, or tea, as well.

As early as the Han Dynasty (206 BC 220 AD), the Chinese prepared tea by boiling tea leaves together with spicy earth items, such as spring onion, ginger, mint, dates, dogwood and orange peel. These spicy items gave the tea extra taste. During the Yuan or Mongol Dynasty  (AD 1271-1368), floral tea came into fashion. The flowers most commonly used were rose, osmanthus orchid, water lily and orange flower.

Also during the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongolians introduced the concept of adding cream to tea before serving. It was during this time that the Chinese began enjoying eating nuts and other small items with their bowls of tea. Thus was born the concept of making tea an essential part of the daily meal, or food becoming a natural accompaniment to tea. This concept eventually evolved into the very popular tradition of serving tea with dim sum.

Tea Etiquette

In the Song Dynasty (AD 960-1279), this enthusiasm of tea-drinkers was reflected in the social and intellectual life of the period. Offering tea to guests became part of a universally accepted etiquette.

With the advent of the Ming Dynasty (AD 1368-1644), an additional step to tea preparation was introduced: in the teapot. Teapots became smaller because people realized that when tea leaves were steeped too long, the last few cups would not be as fresh.

Tea etiquette is best exemplified by observing a traditional tea drinking ceremony. Used as a means of celebration and honor, they are not these ceremonies are not unlike wine tastings in which a set of ritualistic practices are generally adhered to. For instance, the server will pour the tea into a cup and then empty it, allowing you to smell the tea’s lingering fragrance. If you are a true connoisseur you can tell the where the tea is grown and whether it is a good vintage. And remember tea should never be gulped or swallowed in one go but rather sipped gently pulling it through the lips and teeth, creating a slight hissing sound.

Certain Vessels for Certain Teas

During the Qing Dynasty (AD 1644-1911), tea was steeped as well. As the art of tea making and preparing was so precise, attention turned towards the decoration of tea pots. Purple clay pots made in Yixing were favorites because they were the best at bringing out and retaining flavors.

Larger teapots are ideal because they accommodate bigger pieces of tea leaf. Also, the wide mouth allows the heat to dissipate, and the leaves do not get in the way of pouring.

Glasses are ideal for brewing tea, and give a better view of the tea leaves floating and unfolding in the hot water.

The squat Yixing purple clay teapots with their wide mouths are very popular as their absorbent nature enriches the flavor of the tea.

Tea and Food Pairings

Today most fine dining establishments in China take pride in offering guests a variety of teas – one of which is guaranteed to suit the dish ordered. Used prior to the meal to cleanse the palate, during to enhance the flavor of the meal and after to aid digestion, tea masters are the sommeliers of the Chinese epicurean world.

Pu’er tea – Also known as bolay, pu’er is a broad leaf tea made from green, oolong, or black tea. It is a fully fermented tea with a ruddy color and a rich taste that can be enjoyed either raw/green or ripened/cooked. Unlike other tea that should ideally be consumed shortly after production, pu-ers can be consumed immediately or aged like a fine wine. Rich and strong, it is purported to be good for removing the grease found in many Chinese dishes. Furthermore, its popularity may also be linked to its reputation as a slimming tea.

Oolong tea – Translated in English to black dragon tea, oolong is made from leaves that have been partially fermented. Full-bodied and fragrant with a lingering sweet aftertaste, it makes a pleasant accompaniment to bean curd and vegetable dishes as well as those with light meat such as poultry and seafood. Many health benefits have been linked to its consumption including lowering cholesterol and increasing metabolism. 

Green tea – Gaining popularity in North America and Europe, it is the most widely grown tea in China with long purported health benefits such as lowering risks of heart disease and some cancers. Produced by steeping unfermented leaves, this tea has a yellowish green hue and fresh taste. It is ideal with hot and spicy Szechuan dishes, as it is known as the tea that “cools down” the body naturally.

White tea – Unique to China, this slightly fermented tea has a high content of white and hairy leaf buds with a greenish tinge. It is similar to green tea in taste though its appearance is much paler.

Jasmine tea – This sweet scented tea is actually oolong (or sometimes green tea) infused with the fragrance and flavor of the jasmine flower. Due to its delicate and complex nature, it is often paired with light condiments such as stir fried scallops with fresh lily bulbs. Other floral or scented teas that are popular include rose and gardenia.

Dragon Well tea – Somewhat unheard of in North America, longjing or dragon well is often called the national drink of China and has been granted the status of Gong Cha, or imperial tea. There are several different varieties and though essentially a green tea, Dragon well is richer in taste with a gentle, pure aroma. Often paired with thick sauce dishes such as abalone or shark’s fin, it is excellent at refreshing and cleansing the palate. 

Whether for ritual or relaxation, the legacy of teas and tea drinking is undeniably rich and fascinating. So next time you pour yourself a cup…take a moment…breathe deeply and ever so slowly immerse yourself in this ancient Chinese 

Image by mckaysavage via Flickr

Image via Wikipedia