Notwithstanding the allure of cut diamonds, polki jewelry has an elegance of its own which is highlighted when teamed with the right kind of stones and metals. Polki or Indian uncut diamonds have long played the country cousin of the brilliantly cut diamonds. It’s finally got its place under the sun thanks to the display of some stunning jewelry pieces in Bollywood movies like Jodha Akbar & Paheli.

            The use of polki in wedding jewelry and family heirlooms is a tradition in Rajasthan dating back to a couple of centuries. Conventionally, polki is used in jadau & kundan settings. While this trend is back with a bang, confusion still persists about its quality, authenticity & resale value. Below are a few pointers to follow while buying polka jewelry.

            Polki are basically uncut diamonds which have fewer facets. When compared to cut diamonds, they have less clarity & brilliance. After mining, polki diamonds are retained in their natural form without any enhancement. Despite theories, polki cannot be created synthetically in the lab. They come in a wide range of sizes from 0.005 cents to a few carats.

            Polki diamonds are not as expensive as regular cut diamonds. Compared to full-cut diamonds, a polki diamond will cost about 70 – 80% less. If the polki diamond is over 1 carat, the cost difference can go even lower to 50%. The cost of polki jewelry shoots up mainly because of the use of gold and other precious stones. It’s a great option for people who have a limited budget but want a piece of diamond jewelry.

            Polki diamonds do not follow the same quality grading system or the 4C’s (cut, clarity, colour, carat) that cut diamonds do as they come in irregular sizes and have fewer facets. The lack of quality grading & authenticity certificates further complicates things. Experts are of the opinion that the lesser the inclusions, the better the diamond. Inclusions are imperfections like scratches, cracks & black spots. Beside inclusions, one must look out for whiteness. While buying polki, the ideal size is 5 cents and above as it clearly shows off the stone to advantage. Purchasing polki from a reputed jeweler is generally safer and also assures you of its genuineness.

            Polki diamonds look best with yellow gold & precious stones like emeralds and rubies which give an antique finish. One can also experiment by using white gold or platinum with pearls & tourmalines or amethysts. Polki diamonds are largely used in jadau & kundan settings. Jadau is a form of engraved jewelry. Kundan is a setting in which polki diamonds & precious stones are set in highly refined gold foils in recesses that have been hollowed out in the gold. The finish is such that there are no claws or rims.

            Both open & closed settings are used in polki jewelry & it entirely depends on individual preference. With polki, closed setting is very common because of the flat shape of polki. Kundan style adopts both types of settings. The setting largely depends on the play of light required for the particular design.

            According to experts, the resale value of polki fluctuates corresponding to the market price of full cut diamonds & the original purchase value. Resale price could vary from store to store & also on the condition agreed upon while purchasing the same. It is always better to go back to the same jeweler you bought it from. If investment is part of your agenda, it’s advisable to opt for large, clear polka diamonds about 20 – 50 cents in size.

            When it comes to diamonds, superstitions are rampant. Whether you believe in ‘dosh’ or not, it’s prudent to note inclusions & other minor imperfections. If you are still divided, seek the help of a professional assessor.